LÉGION ÉTRANGÈRE – Puyloubier

At the end of Chemin de la Palliere, the road leading out of the Puyloubier past the school you will find the Institution des Invalides de la Legion Etrangere. This property is open to the public and is worth a visit.

The History

The Légion Étrangère – French Foreign Legion – is a legendary French military unit made up foreign recruits willing to serve in the French Armed Forces. Founded in 1831, the legion is the only part of the French military that does not swear allegiance to France, but to the Foreign Legion itself. Any soldier who gets wounded during battle for France can immediately apply to be a French citizen under a provision known as “Francais par le sang versé” (“French by spilled blood”).

And when they arrive in france to retire, or to recuperate the soldiers come to the Institution des Invalides de la Legion Etrangere in Puyloubier to recouperate or to grow old and to continue to live, in  Honneur et Fidélité to the legion.

Domain Captain Danjou

The property is 240 hectares situated at the toe of the Mont Saint Victoire. The bastide and castle date back to the 10th century, the castle being reconstructed in the 19th century. The property can house over 120 soldiers at a time and there are various programs to help rehabilitate and involve soldiers in practical chores such as looking after the vineyards, ceramics, olive harvesting, and maintenance chores.

The domaine is named after Capitaine Jean Danjou a legendary legionnaire who lost a hand when his musket exploded. He designed a wooden prosthetic hand, which he used for the rest of his life. He is famous for his outnumbered stand at the Battle of Camaron in Mexico.

At 1 a.m. on 30 April, the 3rd company was on its way, with three officers and 62 men. At 7 a.m., after a 15 miles (24 km) march, it stopped rest. Soon after, a Mexican force of 3,000 soldiers (800 cavalry and 2,200 infantry) was spotted.

Danjou decided to make a stand at the nearby Hacienda Camarón, an inn protected by a 10-foot (3-meter) high wall. His plan was to tie up the enemy forces to prevent any attacks on the nearby convoy. While the legionnaires prepared a defense of the inn, the Mexican commander, Colonel Milan, demanded that Danjou and his men surrender, pointing out the fact that the Mexican Army was greatly superior in number. Danjou went around to each of his men with a bottle of wine and made them all take a solemn oath not to surrender.

At noon, Danjou was shot in the chest and died. His soldiers continued to fight until 6 p.m. despite overwhelming odds and extreme heat. The 60 men, who had had nothing to eat or drink since the day before, resisted many charges of the Mexican army. The last five survivors were all down to their very last bullet. Instead of dishonoring themselves, they decided to charge with fixed bayonets. When they did, the Mexican commander ordered his troops to cease fire. Out of admiration for their courage, he spared the surviving men and allowed them to form an honour guard for the body of Captaine Danjou. They were released to return to France. This story has become legendary in French military history.

Danjou was buried on 3 May 1863 in Camarón. After the battle, a Mexican named Ramirez discovered and took Danjou’s wooden hand. The hand is the most cherished artifact in Legion history, and the prestige and honor granted to a Legionnaire to carry it on parade in its protective case is among the greatest bestowed on a Legionnaire.

What to see and do

The property is well worth a visit. There is a boutique where you can purchase wine and memorabilia, a pub / restaurant that is open on the weekends, and there’s a little mannequin museum where you can see the various uniforms and weapons associated with the legion.

Aside from the organized activities the grounds themselves are lovely and worth an exploration. If you follow the road into the property you will come across the long table under the Platain trees that sits a hundred people. This is a great place to stop for a picnic. Just a little further on from here you will find a little farm where the kids can see various animals such as pigs, fowl and sometimes deer. And lastly if you’re lucky and attentive you may come across the resident peacocks that live high in the pine trees on the property.

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